[experience] South Island of New Zealand

Lake Tekapo | Queenstown | Te anu | Wanaka | Fox Glacier | Christchurch

It’s with this Experience post that I begin to use ‘we’ when talking about what I do and the blog itself – because my partner and I shared this beautiful journey together and the best part was that he was so enthusiatic about writing too! I couldn’t say no.

Our journey of New Zealand was one of lots of planning. Not just booking the flights early, but literally every activity we did beforehand. I (Mini) and personally so excited to share this experience with you all, and am so incredibly excited to be writing this with Nirry. Nicknames are fun so let’s just go with that?

New Zealand (or Aeotearoa in Maori), is the beautiful tiny country located to the east of our home Australia. It’s one of the most popular holiday destinations for Australians to journey to, and trust me I got severe FOMO every year when I saw all of my friends venture out to see the South Island of the country. So finally I convinced Nirry to come along (thankfully he was so willing even thought he had been 10 years prior!), and we planned out our adventure.

As one of the last European settlements, New Zealand is not only a new country, but it’s quite sparsely populated. The largest city, Aukland is home to 1.7 million people, and the country is home to 4.8 million. Each year New Zealand welcomes 3.5 million tourists – staggering when you compare it to the population. In the South Island temperatures go as far as negative Celcius and in summer reach the early 30’s (celcius), making the climate perfect for the skiing season as well as summer adventure sports. New Zealand is famous for it’s beautiful mountain ranges, the stunning glaciers, the scenic drives, the clear mirror lakes, the sheep, and of course the humble New Zealand hospitality.

Let’s look at the map and the high level plan

Travelling & Transport

The best way to travel the South Island of New Zealand is with a car. Trust us on this one – there is no better way. Public transport across the island is limited, and although their a tour buses running through the island, there is nothing better than the flexibility of having your own car and space to enjoy the journey. It gave us the ability to stop wherever and whenever we wanted for photos, food and just some quiet time. For us, this flexibility as absolutely priceless and if we didn’t appreciate it before going to New Zealand, we certainly did when we got back.

Accommodation

We opted for a mix of Airbnb’s and Hotels to enjoy our stay. In cities like Christhchurch and Queenstown you can find hostels to stay at, but we chose hotels in the major cities. In Queenstown there are SO MANY potential options, but while driving through the city we saw that 99% of them had no vacancies. It is absolutely critical to pre-book your hotel in Queenstown in particular. We will run through our specific hotels, and airbnb’s as we go through the itenary.

Day 1

Christchurch – Tekapo

Upon landing in Christchurch, we collected our luggage and immediately went to get our rental car from the Hertz shop at the airport. We pre-booked our car and got a really great price considering we booked 5 months in advance – the car ended up costing up $70 per day which was a real steal! On the day, particularly if you choose to travel around Easter like we did or other busy seasons, then you can expect to pay a fairly high price. We decided to check on a whim and saw the per day cost, last minute, was over $200 per day!

The highways to drive are fantastic, and we found ourselves at our first stop in Geraldton. Here we chose to have a quick lunch, a light stroll along the main street, and head back to the car. The only issue with the smaller townships is that the shops tend to be closed on the public holidays – and we landed on Good Friday! I’m sure at any other time of the year however Geraldton would be a lovely little stop to explore while taking a break from the road.

I still remember the moment Nirry tapped my on the hand to wake me from my nap to observe the view we were driving toward. I opened my eyes to see a magical orange streaked sun set over the stunning clear blue Lake Tekapo. I was speechless. This was the very first flavour of what was to come in the South Island, and I was so excited. I think it was seeing the lake that really got my energy going for this trip – the view that so people had talked about to me really was just as incredible as they said. We decided to get out of the car and take some photos of the beautiful view.


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We drove straight toward our Airbnb to freshen up, change into warmer gear, and head out for exploring. We chose to stay at “Jo’s Place”which was equipped with 2 beds, a small dining table, a kettle, some tea, a bathroom with a shower and a mini fridge too. The space was compact and really perfect for a couple like us. The Airbnb furthermore was within walking distance of the main dining strip of Tekapo, and within walking distance of the riverside too. It was the perfect little spot for us to spend a nights in Lake Tekapo, and really well priced also.

We closed Day 1 with a meal at ‘Ramen Tekapo’, a little but very popular Japanese restaurant in the main plaza area. Here were indulged in a Vegetable stir fry and a classic Pork Broth Ramen. The menu however features Thai dishes too, with green curry and Pad Thai. In the cold weather the Ramen was the perfect dinner for the two of us to enjoy.


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With dinner behind us our final activity of the night was to drive around the lake for a spot of star gazing, with Tekapo Stargazing. Lake Tekapo is classified as a Dark sky reserve, one of the few places left in the world perfect for star gazing. The 2 hour session was split into two activities. First we were given a tour of the nigh sky from one of the knowledgeable guides. We were provided with insightful stories and facts about the constellations and planets visible. There were a wide variety of telescopes to see all the different stars, planets and constellations. Unfortunately it was a full moon night that particular day, so there wasn’t as much visibility and detail in the sky. Non the less if was incredibly educational and beautiful. Coming from Sydney we rarely see skys like that!

With the tour of the night sky over, we began the second part of sky gazing adventure, star gazing in 38 degree hot water! And when it’s close to 0 outside it’s the most magical experience ever. We quickly changed into our swimmers (swimmers and towels provided if you need them) and scurried over to the out door pool. This was the most magical experience! just lying in the hot water with the night sky shining in all its glory above I would totally recommend this.

Day 2

Lake Tekapo to Queenstown

We kicked started the morning ride at the break of dawn to rush over to the water to catch the beautiful sun rising over the little town. Rushing out we found we weren’t the only ones that had made the journey so early to capture some stunning photos. at our first stop, the Church of Good Shepherd. This is a small church right by the Lake, and is an absolute icon for this town inviting thousands of visitor. Coming early was definitely a smart decision in the face of the heavy Easter crowds!

There was some construction happening around the Church, which meant most angles had the construction fence in the way of the spectacular shot. We made the most of it and climbed on top of a sand mound made for the construction and took these stunning photos!


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We continued our exploration of the gorgeous town and made our way down to the lake, to capture this special gem. To be honest it isn’t difficult at all to capture beautiful photos in New Zealand – every corner, and every stop is just magnificent.

[Side note: Do you want to see more photography tips? Let me know in a comment!]


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Lake Tekapo to Queenstown

After checking out early from our Airbnb we kick started our journey over to Queenstown. We definitely recommend starting early to make the most of the drive. Lake Tekapo itself is probably the most stunning during sunrise because of the sheer colors and angles of the golden light hitting the town. We stocked up here on some snacks (cheese, crackers, and fruit!) before making the journey to our next stop.

Along the main Highway we passed Lake Pukaki, famous for the gorgeous purple flowers (Lupins) which unfortunately were not in bloom during April. I was a little gutted, I can’t lie about that. Like Lake Tekapo, Lake Pukaki was another stunning wonder with it’s ice blue colour, and stunning mountains lining the landscape. Definitely make a pit stop here while on your journey between Tekapo and Queenstown, and be sure to sure photos of the stunning, almost bubble-gum like colors. For me this was one of the most beautiful stops we made, but of course it’s a fairly popular spot so be wary of the crowds.


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We hit Lake Pukaki on our way to Mt Cook to complete the Hooker Valley track. This was one of Nirry’s must do’s on the list. The track itself isn’t too difficult in good weather, however can be a bit tough in the rain. We went in raining weather and found some surfaces very very slippery. Due to the storms in March 2019 the bulk of the track to walk Mt Cook was actually sectioned off, with damage done to the bridge which was the only passage way across on the gorges. This meant the 3 hour one way trip turned into a short journey, giving us additional time to take loads of fun photographs with the amazing scenery.


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Nonetheless, we both highly enjoyed our limited hike and the views here are truly magnificent. There are several points to enjoy stunning views of the mountain, as well as the ice caps, and little look out points of the water. My favourite spot was a little memorial made for climbers that had passed away during their climb of Mount Cook – it’s a very solemn stop but one that had absolutely breathtaking views as well. Beyond this look out, you will find yet another one just before the bridge to cross the water – which is where we had to stop our hike – giving you beautiful views of the mountain. Here it’s wonderfully windy and icy, but absolutely stunning. Definitely take this stop and enjoy the hike, and find shelter in that small hut/recreational space near the parking for a lunch stop. I recommend taking this break here so that the next chunk of the journey is relatively easy 🙂

From here we continued onward to head to Queenstown. If it wasn’t already mentioned, then we should note it again here – navigation in New Zealand’s South Island is exceptionally straight forward. There is really only one road to get to Queenstown!


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Queenstown

Upon arriving at Queenstown, you honestly enter a very different space. From the wide sweeping plains of mountains and well… nothing, you then come to a bustling and very busy town with a whole lot of traffic. Be ready for lots of cars, and lots of tourist buses along the single lane highway! We headed straight for our hotel, the Kamana Lakehouse, one of the newer hotels in the town. Now this hotel is located a little way outside the main town and in the suburbs of Queenstown and up a hill, making it not the most convenient location to walk around – here is where having the car made things so easy! We solved that problem by parking the car at the base of the hill where we found free parking, and walked the 10 minutes into town which was a very small price to pay.

Our first night in Queenstown was spent exploring the nightlife of the town and roaming through the streets of the main town, which is very easy to navigate. One thing people hadn’t mentioned to me was how amazing ALL the food in Queenstown was. Honestly, every single meal we ate was absolutely delicious! We decided to have our first meal at ‘Taco Medic’, a tiny corner restaurant off an alley way in the heart of the city with room for hardly 10 people to sit inside. It was absolutely freezing that night so I definitely don’t blame people for not making the journey our for dinner. These were hands down some of the best tacos we’ve eaten made with fresh ingredients, and a warmed tortilla all made right in front of us. We oped for the ‘Bajaman’ (a fish taco), the ‘Bushman’ (with pulled pork), the ‘Vege Producer’ (a vegetarian taco with black bean) and ‘The Kaimanga”‘ (with a sweet potato cutlet) and we would definitely come back for them!


taco_medic

If the tacos weren’t already enough, we decided to head out again and seek out a spicy meal. We came across the busy, and vibrant ‘Hawker and Roll’ , a Malaysian street food eatery. The smells wafting from the restaurant were absolutely phenomenal combining spices, fresh limit and coconut all in a concoction of the most hearty aromas. We ordered a vegetarian Chickpea Hawker Roll which was served on a hot and flakey Roti Canai, and topped with fresh cool yogurt. Honestly this was such a fabulous meal with its strong and spicy flavours making the cold in Queenstown just that much more bearable. The company here is young and vibrant, and you will be sure to meet a few fellow travelers here – so grab a bite, enjoy the delicious food, get out of the cold and have some great conversations.


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After such a delicious dinner featuring two courses we obviously had to enjoy a third with the famous Patagonia Chocolates. The best thing about Queenstown is the late night hours that all the stores operate too which meant we got delicious dessert service past 10 PM at night (something which believe or not Sydney still lacks). We decided to test the taste buds and go for the ‘Orange and Basil’ sorbet, a gold award winning flavour. To be honest we probably tried 10 flavours before choosing this one – it was so different to anything we had tasted before and we absolutely loved the freshness. If you get a chance pop into the shop and get your hands on some chocolate and ice cream 🙂


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Day 3

Lake Hayes close to the main city area of Queenstown is inherently busy, so we decided to make a stop on the other side of the lake. It was beautiful view with the gorgeous mirror lake and beautiful color changing leaves framing our photos. I recommend coming by to snap a shot of the mirror lake, but also to enjoy a quiet and tranquil moment away from the heavy tourist spots.


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Fergburger

Possibly the biggest tourist attraction in Queenstown is the now infamous and iconic Fergburger, and alongside it’s sister cafes Fergbaker and Mrs. Ferg. Now we recommend heading here at an awkward time, and if you don’t care so much for the experience of waiting in line and bumping against everyone, then 100% take the option to call in and order ahead. We decided to brave it and skipped breakfast in order to eat the burgers at 10:30 in the morning (totally absurd). In the line we met some interesting characters which made for hilarious stories, but a bit of a tiring 30 minute wait. While waiting in the burger line I headed into Fergbaker and got us a delicious Belgian Hot chocolate and my favourite, an almond croissant.


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Is the burger worth it?

Look. It’s a delicious burger hand certainly sits right up there as one of the best we have eaten. Is it worth the long wait? It’ honestly depends on how willing to go out of your way for good food. Want to see my full review? Click here


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River Rafting

One of the things right at the top of my list of things to do was River Rafting (to be frank the Giant Swing was the first choice but with Nirry’s aversion to heights, this was the next best intense sport to do). Queenstown is famous for their river rafting through the Shotover River and runs daily guide. We opted for the GoOrange Shotover White Water Rafting which will put you out of pocket roughly NZD$250 for the entire experience which included the trip to the Shotover river, and all of your equipment. The tour starts from the Go Orange office in the heart of Queenstown. From here you board a bus and are driven to the Shotover river Go Orange stop to get changed and grab all of your gear.


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Once changed you head back to the bus to make the beautiful ride to the top of the River. To get there, the bus taken Skippers Canyon Road , considered one of the most dangerous roads in the world. It’s an exceptionally narrow passage that leads right down a cliff-side that definitely will cause causalities. There is only one lane, so you have to be incredibly careful with on-coming cars, and you must follow the general etiquette shared by travelers of the road.

The rafting experience was absolutely magical, exhilarating, frightening and wonderful. We both came home with bruises, though Mini ended up with blue hands from her poor circulation. Here is where we share some of the bad things – a few weeks before our trip there was an unfortunate accident causing deaths of some rafters, and an instructor too. We aren’t sharing this to scare you, but we are highlighting that there are immense risks associated with all Adventure Sports. It’s very important you do your research and make an informed decision as to whether this sport is appropriate for you!

Our journey included moments of high adrenaline, as well as calm waters giving us a chance to willingly jump into the water to experience the freezing cold water – yes we both jumped in. Thankfully our boat did not capsize, and we didn’t have major accidents! We also got to see some absolutely stunning cliff faces, little mountain goats, and stunning water – we got to marvel at Mother Nature in her full glory.

Would we go again? Yes. Even though we came back to the hotel exhausted and bruised where we were excited for a steaming hot shower and a piping hot cup of chocolate. We took a short rest before heading back out to the city for some hearty food.


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Our dinner choice for the night was Public Kitchen and Bar, known for it’s ‘honest kiwi fare and lakeside dining’. We will be sharing a full comprehensive review (stay tuned for that!) soon, but for now here’s a couple of notes. We absolutely loved our dinner here. We opted for a bar table right at the window offering us a quiet, and private view of the lake in front of us. In the dim lakeside lighting the lake looked incredibly peaceful. The restaurant itself is filled with such warmth, and the smells of incredible home cooking wafted in the air. It was the most homely and warm invitation before we even got a chance to look at the menu. Here we enjoyed Baked Camambert, Mushroom and Cabbage Gyoza, Chickpea and Kumara Fritters, and a Tomato and Butter Bean Ragu. It was a lot of food, but it was truly delicious!

With the number of people lined up outside ‘Cookie Time Cookie Bar’, and the fact that I was craving dessert, we also made a stop to join the long queue. Here we opted for some cookie dough and a cookie of course. We tried a few different flavours and decided to go with ‘Moro Bar, Fudge and Sea Salt’ for the best of the smooth milky fudge flavour, mars bar and salty goodness. Now even though we only had a small scoop, this was a really decadent and over the top dessert. One little cup was WAY too much for the both of us – we could barely get through it!. We tried the classic choc chip cookie and boy was this warm, soft, and chewy with the most intensely delicious flavours. For our sweet toothed friends, definitely make a pit stop here.


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We were desperate to get a view of the night city in Queenstown, especially since we decided to skip the Gondola ride. Our friendly waiter at the Public Kitchen sent us up the main street, onto Gorge Street. We chose to make a stop off Bowen Street. Now full disclosure I (Mini) was absolutely frozen, and I stayed in the car while Nirry performed his magic with the lens and captured the beautiful photo below – yes that’s a glimpse of the milky way and the tiny brightly lit city of Queenstown set at the foot of the mountains. We definitely recommend this spot for those looking for a gorgeous view, without the tourists, a little bit away from town.


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Day 4

We began Day 4 well before sunrise in hope to make the dawn over at the Remarkables, located a short drive outside of Queenstown. We captured sunrise at the base of the Remarkables hike just before the parking spaces for the Ski Resort where there is a open and clear view of the beautiful valley and mountains. The view from here is absolutely beautiful, with the golden sun spreading it’s luminescence over the spot we were at, leaving the rest of the city in shadows. Sleepy Queenstown looked so wonderful from high up here.


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The Remarkables are known for the ski season which was due to begin in a few months, and in the down time is a beautiful hike to find yourself either right at the top, or halfway to Lake Alta. Fair warning that the hike to the top is quite difficult, and I recommend it if you have the right gear and experience hiking. The hike to Lake Alta itself has quite a steep incline, and in the icy morning (where temperature was easily 0 degrees) we needed our puffers to comfortably make it to the top.


Look at all the ice while we climbed!

Look at all the ice while we climbed!

The walk up to Lake Alta found us crunching through ice, finding slippery spots where the ice had just started to melt, and spots that were a bit too dangerous to cross comfortably needing us t take a slight detour around, or simply jump across. If you are a bit like us and enjoy that crisp morning feeling, and the feeling of being the only one observing that moment (because people are asleep :P) then this is a great morning activity for you to do.

Arrowtown

We headed back to the hotel to shower and get ready for our day choosing to head out to Arrowtown for the changing leaves, the old township and the incredibly famous Arrowtown pies. The drive to Arrowtown is truly beautiful, lined with plenty of deciduous, colour changing, trees creating a stunning orange, red and amber fence along the highways. These trees looked even more golden with the rays of sunshine illuminating the leaves. Here in Arrowtown you get to experience the life of the old town with an old bank, old stores, and original architecture. Take a photo in the cute red phone booth, take a walk through the trees to the water, and definitely grab one of the iconic pies!


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You will notice the pie shop as it’ll be the one shop along the main boulevard that has a long line outside. It was afternoon and a number of pies had already sold out (I know!), so we opted for a Lamb and Mint (for mini) and a Vegetarian (for nirry). Both pies had a delicious flakey pastry that just melted away in the mouth, and tasted of yummy butter. The vegetarian filling a little bit underwhelming, but it’s still quite a hearty pie. The lamb and mint was absolutely delicious and reminded me of a good quality roast lamb with mint sauce, and all the tender juices and delicious smells from a sunday family luncheon. There’s plenty of pie fillings to choose from, so if you can, get different ones in the group and try out a few options! Don’t worry the line moves pretty quickly, and you will have your hands on delicious pie in no time.


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While enjoying the historic town, pop into ‘The Remarkable Sweet Shop’ for delicious local and foreign sweets. The sweet shop is famous for their home made fudge coming in delicious flavours and varieties. The store also runs a free fudge tasting too but be warned there’s always a big crowd to try these. We went home with some 6 pieces tasters including the absolutely phenomenal Creme Brulee fudge – seriously try this one, it’s truly magical in flavour. For those that don’t enjoy fudge all that much, not to fear! There are plenty of weird and wonderful sweets from around the world including limit edition Harry Potter sweets from the UK, and American twizzlers.


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Glenorchy

From Arrowtown we made the drive to Glenorchy, a short drive away from Queenstown. It was Sir Ian McKellan (Gandalf from Lord of the Rings) that made the statement “This is Middle-Earth” when referring to Glenorchy. It’s a truly beautiful township with the gorgeous Lake Wakatipu to view. A lot of family travellers choose to stay in Glenorchy over Queenstown for the benefits that fewer tourists and fewer night clubs attract.

Though we didn’t choose to make our stay a long one in Glenorchy, we were glad we made the drive! This was possibly one of the most magical drives we experienced, with absolutely stunning views of the water. We stopped almost every kilometer to grab more and more photos of the stunning and picturesque landscape. If you enjoy photography, then this is a drive you definitely cannot miss.


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Yup – it’s incredible.

In Glenorchy you can participate in activities such as bike riding, hiking, sky diving as well as exploring the town ship. There’s famous stores in the main town center that have been around for years and are a popular tourist attraction. Most people here make the drive to the lake to see the little ‘Glenorchy’ hut, a historical site sitting right by the water. Again fair warning that getting a photo of only you with the hut is a big challenge with the sheer number of people that are trying to get exactly the same thing 😛


Glenorchy

From Glenorchy we ventured back to Queenstown to make our way to the infamous Onsen Pools. If we had more time we would have taken the time to do a hike in the beautiful surrounds of Glenorchy – but hey we had to leave something for next time?

The Onsen Pools

The Onsen Pool was something we absolutely had to book in advance – literally within weeks of booking the flights, we had booked ourselves in for a 2 hour Onsen Pool session because the time slots fill up so quickly! In terms of the experience itself, apart from being an absolute Instagram photo favourite, is really stunning. The privacy and quiet space is unparalleled. We opted for the evening slot for the spa offering us the perfect view of the afternoon sun, and the sunset glow over the mountains. Right here was the window to the most secluded part of Queenstown, and even if we were just one of the many people occupying the pools, we certainly felt like the only ones experiencing this beautiful sight.


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Our top tips?

  1. Book well ahead

  2. If you want the experience but are on a budget, book yourself the 2 hour Onsen Pool session. It came seem a bit hidden on the website – you just have to scroll down.

  3. Enjoy – of course take a couple of those beautiful Instagram worthy photos, but definitely let yourselves get lost in the beauty and tranquility.

We needed to make a quick dinner stop, which proved more difficult than we planned for! We were told an estimated 1 hour wait at almost every restaurant that we wanted to eat at – we went with a sports bar with good pizza as the dinner option.

Te Anau

From here we made the night time drive out to Te Anau. In perfect circumstances we would ideally have spent another night in Queenstown and driven to Te Anau early in the morning to enjoy the scenic drive. Our plan was just a little bit too jam packed with an early morning start the next day to Milford Sound causing us to choose this method. It did mean that we drove in heavy fog (seriously reminded the both of us of horror films), under the magical stars without a clue whether there was water to our sides or land.

I found Te Anu so beautiful with the colorful trees, and leaves. Make sure you stop by the water and enjoy the colors !


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In Te Anu we stayed at a lovely Airbnb called ‘Lorimer’s Retreat’ equipped with a toilet, shower and small kitchenette. Adam was a lovely host offering us tips, tricks and plenty of guidance to make our way through the town. Highly recommend this spot for a cozy bed, something really central, and a host that will ensure you get a great local experience.

Day 5


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Our fifth day started quite early in the morning, with a rushed breakfast including some yogurt and left over bread from Mrs Ferg before we hoped into the car to make our way to Milford Sound for our early ferry ride. The trip is beautiful and leafy and for a whole we didn’t really know what we were heading towards. Upon arrival we got a glance at the most stunning Mirror Lake we had ever witnessed.

We had roughly an hour to kill before our Milford Sound tour courtesy of a really smooth drive, and minimal traffic, so we decided to walk around the recreation area to enjoy the stunning views. Around the lake you will get the opportunity to read about the history and cultural significance of Milford Sound and the neighboring Sounds in the region. We learnt here that it’s incredibly rare to experience a sunny day in the area with 250 days of rain a year. Nirry and I were so grateful to be able to explore with absolutely beautiful albeit windy weather. I highly recommend taking the morning cruise for the opportunity to see the sun peeking out over the landscape, and getting the perfect angle to highlight the rainbows at the bottom of waterfalls.


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The cruise takes you all the way out, and circles back to bring you back to land showcasing the brilliant beauty of the Sound that is truly iconic in New Zealand. Seriously there are so many postcard worthy photograph moments, you will have a hard time selecting your top picks to show people.


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The Chasm

On our way back from Milford we stumbled across a small walk and ‘The Chasm’ which is a series of waterfalls that are flowing with so much water it’s almost impossible not to hear the ferocious sounds. It’s quite a short loop walk, and isn’t too difficult – just be careful of the damp surface making the walk just a bit slippery. The Chasm is one of those spots that fills your mind with the sounds of water, clearing it out completely. Even with the bus full of people lined up viewing the natural structure, I couldn’t help but feeling like I was in a meditative state.

It was back to Te Anu from here, and we again drove through absolutely gorgeous wilderness in Fiordland. Keen for a little nap back at the Airbnb, we headed straight back.


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Fiordland Movie and Te Anu Theater

Upon suggestion from our AirBnb host, we decided to head to the Te Anu theater. Here we found a small theatre with large comfortable seats that reclined. With approximately 24 seats, the counter to purchase tickets has a small diagram which the attendant uses to mark out the tickets sold. Each week there is a different film in the theater. It definitely gave me the feel that the community here must be really close considering how cozy the cinema was.

The film itself was amazing right from the lovely narration, to the rich cultural history that was discussed and shown in the film. The film explores the beautiful and almost completely untouched terrain of Fiordland, describing how the land came to be known with this name, and the various Fiords making up the western coast. The short film gives you a lovely sense of history and mother nature in the region, and additionally it gave us a sense of greater purpose in relation to climate change and nature conservation.

Day 6

We rose nice and early from Te Anu for our drive back towards and through Queenstown to head to laid back Wanaka. I still remember how beautiful the weather was that day with bright sunshine illuminating all the beautifully amber and red colored leaves. If you find yourself enjoying the sunshine in New Zealand then be sure to get out and about because every single corner is absolutely magical.


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Wine tasting

We had heard about New Zealand wines and decided to make a stop at the rustic looking winery, Wet Jacket. Here we had the chance to do a wine and cheese tasting, and we also picked up some cheese and crackers for along the way – a perfect road trip addition. We both highly recommend this activity as a way to break up the driving monotony, and also something different to enjoy.


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Lavender Farm

You cannot visit Wanaka without heading over to the Lavender farm. Even in the cooler months, with the non-flowering lavender, the farm is a beautiful location to explore. There are big Merino sheep, Llamas, and other animals. I loved the little store which served up incredible home-made ice-cream and gelato, honey tasting and plenty of honey and bee related products. We picked up some Lavender cream and honey lotion to take back with us.


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Wanaka is also home to plenty of food trucks, which are huddled together near the town center. Here you will find popular feeds like Mexican food, dumplings, and a juice bar of course. We headed to Burrito Craft for some spicy burrito’s – which we absolutely loved! We really enjoyed the simple community vibe at the trucks, and the delicious food too.

We then checked into our Airbnb, located a little bit outside the main town of Wanaka, but with STUNNING mountain views. This place is a loft, with a small kitchenette and bathroom but yes, you do share the space with the hosts who live down below. You do have a beautifully positioned private entrance, and trust me the panoramic views are unbelievable.

Oh how could I forget the infamous Wanaka Tree, sweetly named ‘That Wanaka Tree’. During the day this is the busiest part of the small town, but by night it’s a magical little haven. We got some pretty fantastic shots in the day, but my absolute favourite photo from our epic trip is this one below. Captured at midnight (i.e. we went a second time!) , we braved the sub zero temperatures to get this magnificent photo, and all the shivering and freezing was completely worth it.


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Upon advice from our AirBnb host in Wanaka, we decided to skip the 5 hour Roys Peak hike, and decided to attempt the much shorter but beautiful Lake Wanaka Lookout hike. This smaller hike takes you via the Diamond Lake (named for it’s geometric shape) and through some private property where you certainly need to watch out for cows and their little gifts spattered across the walk.

The view from here was pretty magical – I mean check out the sunset below! I would absolutely love to do Roy’s peak at some later point to actually compare the walks, but I have absolutely no regrets for choosing this beautiful view at all!


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Not going to lie, we were both starving after the walk, and dinner time couldn’t come sooner. Another recommendation from our host was the ‘Big Fig’, a food spot proud of it’s slow cooked food and hearty meals. It’s simple shop featuring small, medium, large plates with various choices of proteins, carbs and salads. If in town for a meal, trust me this is a shop you definitely want to try particularly in the winter time. The vibe here is very much community, and friendship, and it’s really special.


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Day 7

Day 7 was possibly the day we were looking most forward to with our big drive over to Fox Glacier. Now we literally took no stops to get there – we had our major time crunch to ensure we got there on time.

Fox Glacier

The biggest highlight of our epic New Zealand adventure had to be the absolutely stunning Fox Glacier and Glacier hike. We booked through Fox Glacier Guiding, well in advance. This is necessary since we realised that most of the dates and timings were already gone by the time we tried to book. Along with the Onsen Pools, this was one of the first activities we booked.


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It’s a truly breathtaking experience. One of the first things you realise when you come here is how much the ice has receded due to global warming. Roughly 10 years ago you were able to physically walk right onto the glacier – now you have to take a short helicopter trip up to one of the landings.

Fox Glacier itself is stunning in so many ways. I have mentioned it numerous times in the blog, but the glacier really humbled us with the beauty and force that we call Mother Nature. The dips, melting water, crevasses, and vortexes were just small examples of how the terrain turns treacherous and yet mindblowing.

The journey on the glacier will set you back a fair bit, and it was definitely the most expensive activity that we booked. Honestly with consideration of how much the global temperatures have risen, this really is a once in a lifetime experience. If this can fit into your budget, or if you are able to squeeze this in, then please definitely add it to your itinerary.


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Right by here is a little pub called Cook and Saddle Saloon featuring quality pub food, hearty soups and delicious winter feeds. Post the icy glacier walk, this is a wonderful way to warm up the body again, and also try the wonderfully friendly local hospitality. We opted for the house creamy pumpkin soup paired with crispy wedges. The soup really hit the spot with it’s rich flavour and spice, while the wedges were a perfect accompaniment.


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From here our drive to the sleepy town of Hokitika began. This drive is incredibly different to the mountain views everywhere else on the South Island. The west coast offers a very different terrain, and is filled with lush greenery. The start of the drive is right by gorgeous lakes, but turns to a flatter drive with the ocean to your left. One thing that is really key along this drive is to stock up on food and drink, as well as fuel – there aren’t too many stops along the way and only a few spots for food. It’s a longish drive – we reached Hokitika after sun-down and ready for dinner so make sure you have nibbles to get you through!

It was in the dark that we reached our accommodation at Hokitika. Full disclosure it’s a bit of a tricky drive in and not going to lie we were worried that we were about to be kidnapped. In saying this, once you get passed the crazy long driveway in, the house is absolutely beautiful. It’s a bed and breakfast so you may have to share the common spaces and bathroom with other guests – we were lucky that we were the only campers for our stay. The hosts here are lovely and live right upstairs in the home, but offer fresh eggs and milk right from their farm for breakfast. We loved our stay!

Dinner at Stumpers

We found it a bit difficult to find dinner around in Hokitika. It’s a tiny town, with tonnes of character and with a few restaurants you will find it a bit tricky to get a spot. We made our way to Stumpers for two simple reasons – 1. the NRL game was on and my (as in MIni’s) team was playing and 2. we were keen for some pub grub and a drink. Stumpers was an amazing decision. We ordered the vegetarian pie which was served with a tangy soy glaze-like sauce. The pie was so delicious! The pub had really fun vibes too! We both highly recommend it.


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Day 8

Hokitika Gorge

Though Hokitika was a pit stop for us on our journey back to Christchurch, we obviously had to do some local exploring. We headed over to the Hokitika Gorge, a popular tourist spot.

Our top tip – make sure you wear plenty of insect repellent. There are plenty of pesky bugs that do bite! You can’t quite see it in the photo below, but all the exposed skin is was being bitten horribly just at that very moment. Here are the Gorge you will find beautiful ice blue water subtly pushing up against the rocks. It’s a beautiful spot, and we found it so peaceful and easy to meditate to the sounds of the soft waves. This is a really beautiful photo stop!


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From here in Hokitika we began our drive over to where this amazing journey all began, in Christchurch.

Arthur’s pass

Along the way is a must do in the South Island, that interestingly doesn’t attract too many tourists – Arthur’s Pass. There is short hike here and beautiful waterfall, which thanks to rainfall in the region the night before and while walking (see middle photo!), was flowing with full gusto. The location is really so beautiful, and the terrain is so unique with it’s rain-forest like colors in contrast to the harsher cold of the east.

Castle Hill walk

A fun walk in Hokitika that we came across was the Castle Hill trail featuring stone boulders highlighting the strong stone and quarry history of the township. Here you will find yourself lost in the stones which line up to create a beautiful separation at the horizon. For us, this was a really magical space where eons of history, natural events and the sheer remoteness of New Zealand were completely highlighted. It’s thankfully not an overly busy spot so give yourself an opportunity to meditate and have a breather 🙂


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Day 9

Our first proper day exploring Christchurch started with the Botanical Gardens. The weather was stunning, and we certainly felt some warmth in the city, so a walk in nature seemed appropriate. The gardens are a beautiful place to enjoy the nature, particularly in the autumn. There’s a little river, with loads of bridges and small monuments around the park. The gardens have a lovely walking trail, galleries, and animals too.

If you want a bit of a romantic experience, something that we actually skipped, then do opt for ‘Punting on the Avon’. This is a small boat trip through the water in the park, led by a smartly dressed ‘Punter’. On the ride you are shown the beautiful flora and fauna of the park. It wasn’t quite something we were into, but certainly something fun to do if you have a nice afternoon to yourselves with good weather.


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Friday Street food market @ Cathedral Square

Nirry and I wanted to explore the Christchurch culture by heading out to the Friday Street Food Markets, held in Cathedral Square. Is this a must do? Honestly no. Perhaps the timing of our trip – so soon after the Christchurch Mosque Massacre – meant that there weren’t very many people hanging outside their homes after sunset. It was quite a quiet night, with not too many trucks. Hopefully now the markets have more energy and more and more people. We still loved the food we ate, and would definitely want to go back in particular to eat momos!


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Lunch @ Lotus Heart

Nirry was craving Indian home cooked food, so we found the top rated Indian restaurant in Christchurch called Lotus Heart. Set within a temple and store dedicated to the disciplines of Shri Chinmoy, where only vegetarian food is served with a bit of a twist. Nirry ordered his staple, the ‘Curry Dosa’ which is a savoury crepe made with a coarse dahl base, served with dahl, and a green chutney. We really liked the wholesome flavours, and the earthy tones of the Dosa. I ordered a ‘Bengali Bowl’ – a big rice bowl with curried potatoes, dahl, and chutneys. This was another really clean, healthy meal. Loved the flavour combinations and the really subtle spices. We thoroughly enjoyed the food and definitely recommend Lotus Heart for a clean and healthy Indian meal.

Cultural Experience @ Willowbank Reserve

We decided to wrap up our New Zealand adventure with a wonderful Maori cultural experience are Willowbank Reserve in Christchurch. We were recommended by a number of people to come here and not just enjoy the cultural experience, but to enjoy the traditional Hangi dinner that they served too. One thing you will definitely realise in the South Island is the overwhelming effects and discussion of European settlement and not much to show for the Maori habitation of the island. We learnt that this was directly because today only 3 tribes exist in the South Island, centered in Otago while the North Island is concentrated with over 100 tribes! For me personally, it was really important to get the experience of true Maori culture while in New Zealand, so this was definitely an experience I was greatly looking forward to.


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To get here you need to drive roughly 20 minutes outside of the city to the reserve, or there is a shuttle to certain hotels. There are two options to book – 1 is the experience alone, and the other is with a three course meal. We opted for the full three course meal, considering if was cooked fresh in an underground oven right while we were enjoying our experience. Vegetarian diets and other food intolerance are catered for which is fantastic, and they really look after everyone here with the most lovely homely hospitality.

The evening starts with a traditional welcome to the land, and an introduction to what you can expect from the evening. It covers some basic terms for the audience to use – ‘Ka Pai’ meaning cool/well done/got it/awesome for example. We were explained the complex cultural components that would be showcased to us, and the meaning behind the expression, the gestures and the proceedings. Our tribe, or the entire group assembled for the cultural show, then appointed a Chief who would be representing us in the nights activities.


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Of course we had more audience participation with the performances of the Haka and women dancing too, followed by a proper show. Following the amazing dancing we were led back into the dining space to enjoy the traditional Hangi dinner.

We highly recommend the Willowbank cultural experience in Christchurch, and it is certainly something completely different for you to enjoy. The South Island doesn’t have many Maori tribes, and so the cultural influence isn’t as significant. For me this was a great way to end our trip.

Home Time

Alas, the time to go home had approached. Not going to lie we were pretty sad to head home after such a beautiful journey through such a stunning nation. The road trip was exhilarating, exhausting and so impressive. With our first overseas trip together, Nirry and I not only learnt a tonne about each other, but we actually came back completely energized and geared up for the next 12 months. We flew the short 3 hours back with Jetstar – with no complaints here 🙂


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